Before you startGeneral guidance from our members' experience, checked against the sources listed at the foot of this page. Old bicycles vary, so check everything against your own bike. Brakes, steering, wheels and tyres are safety-critical: if you're not sure, have a qualified mechanic do or check the work. Any work you do is at your own risk. See our terms.
- Strip what you canAt least the wheels, saddle and handlebars. Grime trapped around parts holds moisture.
- Wash gentlyWarm water and a mild soap, with a soft brush for lug joints and cable stops.
- Dry it completely, inside tooTake out the seat post and tip the frame to drain any water. Leave it somewhere warm.
- Touch up chipsSeal chips and bare metal straight away with matched paint or clear lacquer, before rust gets under the paint.
- Wax the paintA thin coat of wax over all painted surfaces keeps moisture off.
- Protect the insideA rust inhibitor sprayed inside the tubes, such as J P Weigle's Frame Saver. BikeRadar's review describes spraying it in through the seat tube, turning the frame so it coats the inside, plugging the breather holes and leaving it to cure, ideally overnight.
Where rust starts
| Area | Why | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Around the bottom bracket | Water runs down the tubes and collects there | Check every season and protect the inside |
| Underside of the chainstays | Road spray, chain oil and stone chips | Touch up chips and wax regularly if you ride it |
| Lug joints | Moisture sits in the lug lines | Clean with a cotton bud; seal cracked paint |
| Main tubes | Stone chips on the down tube | Regular waxing is usually enough |
Storage
Indoors is always better than a damp shed or garage for a good frame. Hang it, or stand it on its wheels, rather than leaving a bare frame on a cold floor.
Thin-walled tubingButted Reynolds tubes have thin walls, so rust inside them matters more. Every steel frame benefits from the same care.
Sources
Checked 19 October 2026. Method tips without a source are our members' experience.