Before you startGeneral guidance from our members' experience, checked against the sources listed at the foot of this page. Old bicycles vary, so check everything against your own bike. Brakes, steering, wheels and tyres are safety-critical: if you're not sure, have a qualified mechanic do or check the work. Any work you do is at your own risk. See our terms.
Before you start
- Photograph every transferBoth sides, front and back, plus close-ups with a ruler in shot for scale.
- Work out what kind they areSee the types below. Each needs different handling.
- Cover fragile onesLow-tack masking tape over transfers with lifting edges or fine cracks. Test the tape somewhere hidden first.
- Keep solvents awayNo degreaser or solvent anywhere near a transfer. Water only near transfers.
- Decide whether to seal lifting edgesSome restorers brush a very thin coat of clear lacquer over lifting edges and let it cure before going further. It changes the original finish, so think about it first.
Take parts off in this order
- Wheels first, laid flat rather than leaned against the frame
- Handlebars and stem, with the bar ends wrapped in cloth
- Saddle and seat post: mark the insertion depth first
- Chain and drivetrain, with the chainstay transfer covered with tape
- Brakes and cables: control the cables as they come out, as they can whip and scratch
Types of transfer
| Type | Handling |
|---|---|
| Water-slide transfers | The most fragile. They crack and lift with age. Handle as little as possible and don't touch them with bare fingers. |
| Vinyl stickers | More durable and can be cleaned with water. Keep solvents off them. |
| Printed directly onto the paint | The most durable, but solvents can dissolve the ink, and they can't be removed and replaced. |
Sources
This guide is our members' experience. Checked 19 October 2026.