Before you startGeneral guidance from our members' experience, checked against the sources listed at the foot of this page. Old bicycles vary, so check everything against your own bike. Brakes, steering, wheels and tyres are safety-critical: if you're not sure, have a qualified mechanic do or check the work. Any work you do is at your own risk. See our terms.
Hubs coveredMainly the AW, the most common Sturmey-Archer hub, introduced in 1936 (Sheldon Brown). The AG is an AW with a built-in Dynohub generator. The SW, a 'super-wide' 3-speed, was meant to replace the AW in 1957 but was withdrawn and the AW reintroduced in 1958. The FW is the most common 4-speed. Other models differ inside.
Strip and clean
- Remove the wheelUnscrew the knurled connector to disconnect the indicator chain, remove the axle nuts and note where each washer goes.
- Leave the sprocket onIt's held by a circlip. Sheldon Brown says there's no need to remove it unless you're replacing it.
- Remove the left-hand coneTake off the left-hand locknut, any washers and the cone.
- Unscrew the right-hand ball ringMark its position first: it has to go back where it was. Use a hammer and punch. It's a standard right-hand thread, so it turns anticlockwise to undo (Sheldon Brown). The internals then come out together.
- Clean everythingDegrease all the parts and lay them out in the order they came out.
Inspect
- Pawls and springsEach pawl should snap back when pressed. Replace weak or bent springs.
- BearingsReplace any balls with flats, pits or rust. The right-hand ball ring takes 24 balls of 3/16in (Sheldon Brown).
Reassemble and adjust
- Grease the bearings onlySheldon Brown recommends water-resistant grease, such as boat-trailer grease, for the bearings, and says not to use grease anywhere else.
- Oil the mechanismOn reassembly, pour about two teaspoonfuls of good-quality thin oil into the planet cage (Sheldon Brown).
- Adjust the gearThe official method: in 2nd gear (the middle position), the outer shoulder of the indicator rod should be level with the end of the axle on the sprocket side. Sheldon Brown prefers adjusting by cable tension instead, because rod and axle lengths vary; in high gear, the cable should be totally slack.
- Test under loadRide it in every gear, not just spin the wheel in a stand.
A Sturmey-Archer trigger
The gear trigger on a Hercules folding bike, marked Sturmey Archer England.
Photos: Garry Gregory.
If it misbehaves
| Symptom | Check first |
|---|---|
| Slips or jumps | The adjustment, then the pawls and pawl springs |
| Stiff or slow change | A dirty or dry mechanism: clean and oil it |
| Grinding | Worn or pitted bearings |
| Stuck in one gear | The cable and the indicator chain |
Dating a hub
Older Sturmey-Archer hubs usually have the model code stamped on the shell, with the month and the last two digits of the year of manufacture. Retro Raleighs calls this the easiest way to date a 3-speed, if it still has its original rear wheel.
Parts
SJS Cycles stocks Sturmey-Archer spares such as indicator chains and axles. New old stock turns up on eBay. Our Parts page has a Sturmey-Archer section.
Sources
Checked 19 October 2026. Method tips without a source are our members' experience.
- Sheldon Brown: Sturmey-Archer AW hub: disassembly and reassembly
- Sheldon Brown: Installation and adjustment of Sturmey-Archer hubs
- Sheldon Brown: Sturmey-Archer Bicycle Hubs Cribsheet
- Retro Raleighs (sheldonbrown.com): How Old is Your Raleigh?
- SJS Cycles: Sturmey Archer indicator chain (example of current spares)