Before you startGeneral guidance from our members' experience, checked against the sources listed at the foot of this page. Old bicycles vary, so check everything against your own bike. Brakes, steering, wheels and tyres are safety-critical: if you're not sure, have a qualified mechanic do or check the work. Any work you do is at your own risk. See our terms.
Anodised partsColoured, black or clear-anodised alloy has a protective layer. Clean it only with soapy water and a soft cloth: polish cuts through anodising, and it can't be put back without re-anodising.
- Work out the finishAnodised, brushed or polished? If in doubt, start with the gentlest method.
- Clean it firstWarm soapy water and a soft brush. Polishing over grit scratches.
- Wet-and-dry, only if it's pittedFor pitted or heavily oxidised alloy only: work up through 400, 800, 1200 and 2000 grit, always wet, keeping strokes in one direction. Skip this for parts that are just dull.
- PolishA metal polish on a microfibre cloth, in small circles. Autosol is one that's used on aluminium. The cloth turns black as the oxide comes off; keep going until it stays clean.
- BuffA clean dry cloth. For a mirror finish, a cotton polishing mop on a drill.
- Protect itClear lacquer for a show bike, or wax for a bike you ride. Without protection, alloy dulls again.
Steel or aluminium?Try a magnet. Ordinary steel is magnetic; aluminium isn't. Some stainless steel isn't magnetic either, so a part that ignores the magnet isn't always alloy.
Don't use on aluminiumVinegar or other acids; rust removers or converters; steel wool or a wire brush; abrasive pads on anodised parts.
Sources
Checked 19 October 2026. Method tips without a source are our members' experience.